Page 29 - Tapas. Spanish Design for Food

Estuches exclusivo para los prestigiosos jamones ibéricos de bellota Joselito.
Arriba: Modelo diseñado por el arquitecto Rafael Moneo y Moneo Brock Studio. Un carro que alude a la aguja de una catedral gótica, y que luego se reconvierte en una lámpara.
Abajo: Modelo en rojo e interior decorado con encaje negro, creado por la firma de lencería Andrés Sardá, con diseño de GR studio en colaboración con Mucho.
Exclusive packs for Iberian acorn-fed hams from Joselito, regarded as the best in the world.
Above: A model designed by the architect Rafael Moneo and Moneo Brock Studio. A cart that alludes to the spire of a Gothic cathedral, and which afterwards turns into a lamp.
Below: A model in red, with the interior decorated with black lace, created by the lingerie firm Andrés Sardá, with design by GR studio in collaboration with Mucho.
El diseño en la comida
La cocina española posee una alta consideración internacional, pero no ha logrado adquirir la relevancia o fama de la de otros países o cultu- ras. La cocina francesa está asociada a la exquisitez y a una cuidadosa elaboración, mientras que la italiana tiene un marchamo popular de calidad ligado principalmente a la pasta o a la pizza. La cocina japo- nesa tiene sus rasgos distintivos con el elaborado sushi; otras cocinas orientales, como la china, la india o la tailandesa tienen su peculiaridad compositiva. También existe un reconocimiento de la cocina mexicana con su derivación tex-mex. Los menús de todas ellas se han convertido en mercancías exportables.
Nuestra cocina está asociada a platos como la tortilla de patatas, el gazpacho y la paella, y está basada en productos como el jamón ibéri- co, los cítricos y el aceite de oliva, así como en su cuidada huerta y su abundante pescado y marisco. Pero hasta la fecha no ha gozado de un marchamo asociativo como la sofisticación francesa o la calidad italia- na. Hace poco tiempo que, con el fenómeno turístico, se empezaron a difundir algunos platos típicos ya referidos y se extendió el concepto de tapeo como forma de comida.
Podemos destacar algunos productos alimenticios manufacturados tradicionales como ejemplos de food-design avant-la-lettre. Rellenar oli- vas es una práctica culinaria mediterránea, pero su enlatado y comer- cialización lo han convertido en un producto típicamente español, con marcas tan relevantes como La Española o Serpis, ambas ubicadas en Alcoy. Bien puede considerarse un ejemplo genuino precursor del diseño alimenticio. Igual que el churro, una pasta extrusionada con un caracte- rístico estriado que mejora la fritura. Lo que originalmente se confeccio- naba con una manga con boquilla, se perfeccionó con una maquinaria con una manivela que facilita la extrusión de la pasta directamente sobre el recipiente donde se fríe. Recientemente, la empresa vasca New Food Spray ha presentado un spray para hacer churros de forma inmediata, del spray a la sartén. La gula es otro producto alimenticio español de éxito.
The design of food
Spanish food is highly regarded internationally, but it has not achieved the significance or fame of that of other countries and cultures. French food is associated with exquisiteness and very careful preparation, while Italian food has the label of quality for all, linked mainly to pasta and pizza. Japanese food has its distinctive characteristics with its exquisitely-pre- pared sushi; other oriental cuisines—such as Chinese, Indian or Thai— have their characteristic compositions. Mexican food is also recognized in its Tex-Mex derivative. The menus of all these cuisines have turned into exportable products.
Our cooking is associated with dishes such as Spanish omelet, gaz- pacho and paella, and is based on products such as cured ham, citrus fruit and olive oil, as well as excellent vegetables and abundant fish and sea-food. But until now it has not had a label associated with it in the same way as French sophistication or Italian quality. It is only more re- cently, with the arrival of tourism, that some of the typical dishes just mentioned are becoming well known. What is more, the concept of tapas as a way of eating is becoming widespread.
We can hold up some traditional manufactured food products as examples of food design avant la lettre. Stuffing olives is a culinary practice throughout the Mediterranean area but canning them and marketing them has made them a typically Spanish product, with major brands such as La Española or Serpis, both located in Alcoy. They could well be regarded as true precursors of designer food. Then there is the churro, a doughy confection which is extruded with stri- ations along the sides so that it will fry better. What was originally made using a piping bag and nozzle is now made using a machine with a lever to facilitate extrusion of the dough directly into the frying vessel. Recently the Basque company New Food Spray has unveiled a pressurized can to make instant churros, from the can to the pan. Imitation elvers known as gulas are another successful food product. They came into existence through the combined efforts of a number
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